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2) Remove the two forward bolts. The rubber through which the bolt passes, will want to keep the bolt in the valve cover
and just pulling on the bolt makes the rubber lock it in tighter so you'll need to 'work the rubber out' of the valve cover
with your finger nails or small dull tool.
3)Remove the washer from the two forward bolts. You'll need to get the
rubbers off the threaded end of the bolts to remove the washers, then reinstall the rubbers during step #4. A small 'metal
scribe' - like an ice pick - works well. If you have a tendency to stab or cut yourself, you may want to hold the bolt in
a table vice. Put the scribe through the rubber, alongside the bolt and use the scribe to work the rubber up and over the
shoulder of the bolt near the threads.
4) Put those two forward bolts through the correct bracket so the bracket
extends down and under the head. The bracket provides a washer replacement and also provides a recessed area for the rubber.
Replace the rubber onto the bolts - using the lessons learned when removing the rubbers. The rubber will be snug, but will
fit into the back side of the bracket.
5) Mount the Mick-O-Peg bracket to the front of the valve cover. CAUTION: The Mick-O-Peg bracket is thicker than the
washer you removed in step #3 so do not tighten the two forward bolts as tightly as you would the back two. The back two
bolts bottom out on the shoulder so you cannot over crush your valve cover gasket, but you can over tighten the front two
bolts now that you have the thicker Mick-O-Pegs bracket in place of the washers you removed. TIP: Tighten the forward bolts
to about the same torque you feel just before the back two bolts bottom out.
When you do the installation, you'll
see that the valve cover bolts are not very large. For this reason, the Mick-O-Pegs are limited by the strength of those
bolts which are supported by the other 2 bolts and the cover itself.
PRE LOADING THE SPRINGS: When you mount the right "leg", you'll notice two small holes for the spring. (The
left 'leg' has just one hole.) Use the offset hole rather than the centered hole for the right side. The offset hole will
provide the additional pre load tension of the spring on the right side. With the spring in the 'cover', place the exposed
end of the spring in the small hole at the end of the "leg". Keep the 'leg' against the 'cover' so the spring doesn't come
out of the 'leg'. Place the pivot bolt through the center of the 'cover' and through the 'leg'. You'll notice a few threads
for the pivot bolt in the bracket, but not enough threads to provide strength, so the lock nut should be placed against the
back side of the bracket to provide additional threads for the pivot bolt. You'll need a 7/16" wrench. Once the cover is
snug, over the roll pins, you can tighten the lock nut to hold it all in place. To get tension on the spring, finger tighten
the pivot bolt then back it out about 1/4 turn so you can rotate the 'cover'. Rotate the cover (counter clockwise on the
left side or clockwise on the right side) so the spring starts lifting the 'leg'. Keep the 'leg' against the cover so the
spring doesn't come out of the 'leg'. With the 'leg' in the up position, the cover will almost be square with the bracket.
Square the bracket and the cover should fit over the roll pins to help hold it square. Tighten the pivot bolt and lock it
in place with the lock nut. Feel free to add a little sticky backed rubber under the valve cover if you are concerned about
the 'leg' touching there when you slide your foot of the peg.
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